Mary Katrantzou AW12 Mood Piece
The Grecian print designer par excellence; whose splendidly received hitherto collections, renowned for their concrete structure, illusory digital prints and exuberant colour maintains her pioneering stance on the hyper-realist aesthetic. This time the muse for her motifs has proceeded from the gardens of Summer to an appropriate Winter location; the house. Citing still life, crayon box and Victoriana as inspirations; designs are punctuated with chess pieces, spoons and vintage typewriters.
The triumph of her trompe l'oeil is that by choosing to feature everyday objects, it impresses by how with visual ingenuity the ordinary can be rendered surreal. Mary cleverly themed colour through association with the mundane articles they appear on, such as the yellow of the classic HB pencil, with a witty note lent by the pencil skirts that consisted of pencils. While the employment of demure silvers, pale golds, monochrome and pastels made for a coy palette as the show commenced, the latter half represented the collection title 'Colour is the Fruit of life' as it went to include many of the shades one would find in their crayon box. The signature unyielding structure honoured the hourglass and performed an ode to the feminine form. But beyond the expected peplum jackets and panniers on skirts, a softening of the silhouette was witnessed with the introduction of billowing movement in the babydoll frocks, bustle skirts, ruffles and chiffon's.
A further elegant contrast was bestowed upon the collection by the contradiction of the simplicity of the sheer fabrics and silk wool with the eclectic collages and exquisite embellishment of the Swarovski detailing. AW12 sees the first collaboration between Katrantzou and French Atelier Lesage. The legendary Haute Couture house has never afore worked with a London Designer, a mark of prestige Mary has earned. A collection both dainty and opulent, its flattering credentials make it as covetable as it is accomplished.